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Nov 10, 2016tongatim rated this title 2.5 out of 5 stars
Interesting and well-written account of the life of a die-hard surfer. Having lived and surfed in the same era, there was much to relate to, and much more of interest to those of us who veered away from the surfing life as we took more conventional paths, often wondering---and sometimes dreaming---what life would have been life if we instead took off on that lifelong surfing safari. Finnegan lets us share the journey of a the hard core surfbum. Drags in places, but otherwise compelling.